Cosmo Bag Sew Along: Step #3

Are you still alive after cutting all that fabric and interfacing?  I admit, it took me a good week to drum up the energy to cut all that.  I could say my big recent news was the excuse for avoiding my Cosmo Bag fabric, but that would be a big white lie!

Today we are going to get hot and break out the steam for our fusible interfacing.  Hopefully you have also been using the woven interfacing recommended in the pattern instructions.  It’s really tempting to buy the cheap polyester stuff, but this bag is meant to actually tote things around and the woven cloth interfacing gives this bag some serious reinforcement and structure.  You’ll be glad you’re using it!  Once I started to use this type of interfacing, I stopped buying the cheap stuff (although I have a plethora of it in my sewing stash so I have a lot of crafty projects to make to use it up still).

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag Pellon Shape Flex SF101 woven fusible interfacing

This woven interfacing requires a damp pressing cloth for it to adhere well to the fabric… except I prefer to use a spray bottle and I lightly spritz the interfacing when it’s on top of the fabric.  Your steam iron should be on full steam and hot for cotton.  I use a dry press cloth on top of the ironing board, then I put my fabric piece down with the wrong side facing up to me.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

Place the interfacing on top of the pattern piece, glue side touching the wrong side of the fabric piece.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

Then I spritz on top of the interfacing with my water spray bottle and place a dry press cloth on top.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

Place your steam iron on top of the piece, give it a burst of steam of two and gently press.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

It should all fuse together pretty quickly.  Check your pieces to make sure the interfacing has fused to the fabric and when it is complete, you should have some lovely fused pattern pieces… no air bubbles.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

You will find that this fusible woven interfacing instantly shrinks when the moisture comes in contact with it.  That’s totally OK!  Whether you use the damp press cloth method or spritz your interfacing with water like I do, you’ll have the same experience with the shrinking interfacing.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

When you get to the bottom panel, you are going to center the fusible fleece on the exterior print… I made a little mistake and fused mine to the lining bottom panel.  It’s not the end of the world, so if you do the same, no need to freak out!  But ideally, your fleece should be fused to the exterior print instead of the lining.  You’re going to make a sandwich out of this piece.  The glue side of the fusible fleece should touch the wrong side of the exterior bottom panel.  Using lots and lots of steam (and a press cloth on top!), you will fuse the fleece to the fabric.  Sometimes I also flip this piece over and press on the right side of the fabric to make sure the glue on the fleece has fully adhered to the fabric.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

You will have a half inch border of fabric all the way around the fleece and then you’re going to take one of your matching interfacing pieces and place it glue side touching the fleece & fabric border.  It’s important that you make sure the interfacing is securely fused to that fabric border around the fleece, too.  After you make this fleece sandwich, you’re going to take your lining bottom panel and fuse the other piece of interfacing to that panel like you did for all the other pattern pieces.

Amy Butler Cosmo Bag fusible woven interfacing

This is going to take a while… so log into Netflix and enjoy the new season of Arrested Development while you do this!  Remember to keep your fabric pieces nicely organized in their mini piles.  Take your time and remember:  it’s better to do this well now, so that you don’t end up with bunchy, bubbly fabric & interfacing later.

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